The Challenges of Knitting for Every Body
The topic of size-inclusivity in knitting is not new, but I’ve seen some extra hot takes on social media lately that have prompted me to rethink how I approach this in my own knitting and pattern designing.
Why Does Sizing Matter?
Everyone (and I actually mean everyone) deserves to have clothing that fits them in a way that they are comfortable with. Mass produced clothing comes in a very standard size range - small, medium, large, etc. Knitting patterns used to be the same, but there has been a push in recent years to incorporate a standard of at least 10 sizes in a standard knitting pattern.
This is so important to making sure you have a garment that fits well no matter what size body you inhabit, but on the design side of things, it is not without some significant challenge.
The good news is that knitted fabric is incredibly versatile which can make it adaptable across a range of sizes. But in order for a garment or pattern to work better across a range of sizes, it has to be well constructed and well fitting to begin with. There’s a careful process of adapting a design to make sure each size retains the intended look, shape, and wearability.
The Art and Science of Pattern Grading
Pattern grading is what helps translate a single knit design into multiple sizes. For knitwear designers, this means balancing the intended fit of each pattern size across all sizes. A sweater that drapes beautifully in one size can look entirely different if proportions aren’t carefully adjusted for other sizes.
One of the biggest challenges in grading a pattern is that not all measurements increase proportionally as overall size increases. Anyone who has ever tried to purchase a comfortable bra probably understands this, cup size and band size are not necessarily directly related.
For knitting patterns, this means that as you increase a full bust measurement, you can’t increase arm circumference or neck circumference at the same rate!
Flexibility Meets Complexity: The Test Knitting Process
Here’s where it really gets interesting: testing. Each size of a pattern needs a “test knit” to ensure it looks and fits as intended for each size. This means finding real people to volunteer their time and skills to knit each size, noting where the pattern isn’t clear or where changes might be needed to make sure the piece will stretch, drape, or hug just right for all body types. Test knitters are the unsung heroes who make sizing inclusivity possible, giving designers insights that go beyond measurements.
I’m relatively new to knitting design and I have a very small following (thank you for all of you who are here!) which means that it’s currently virtually impossible for me to find one person, let alone multiple people, to test each size of a pattern.
I’m not sharing this as an excuse for not having every size test knit, or even for sympathy. I just want to make sure that we understand and talk about the challenges of this system and think about ways we can do better!
I’d love to be able to pay someone for their time in testing a pattern, but that just isn’t something I can do right now. And while I fully support the reasoning behind and process of test knitting, I think it’s interesting that the industry is so accepting of free labor being a critical part of the pattern design process.
This also ties into the pricing of patterns. Most knitting patterns fall into the 6-12 USD range. Considering the amount of time and effort that goes into designing a relatively simple sweater pattern, most designers are working for pennies. Which further perpetuates the need for testers needing to be willing to volunteer their time!
One Size Fits Most: Pattern Modifications
As a human, I’m sure you understand that there is huge variation in body sizes and shapes and that it would actually be impossible to create something that will fit everyone.
That being said, I do think it is my responsibility as a designer to create a pattern across multiple sizes that will work for most people. I also feel pretty passionately about providing some guidance on how to make modifications in the pattern to make it work better for you.
I also believe that knitters owe it to themselves to understand what does and doesn’t work for their body and where they might need to make modifications for something to fit better. Whether that be adding bust darts if there is a large difference between your full bust and upper bust and you don’t want a sweater that is oversized elsewhere (or if you’re between sizes and just need a little more room) or simply knowing that you need to add length to every garment you make (this is me…member of the excessively long torso club).
Why This Matters for Handmade Shoppers
When you buy a handmade knit, you're supporting more than just beautiful craftsmanship. Behind each piece is a labor of love, time, and testing to ensure you’re getting something unique, wearable, and thoughtfully made to fit. This dedication is part of what makes handmade knits so special (and worth every penny).
For me, making hand knit accessories to sell is a way that I can add extra income so that I have the time and resources to work on creating knitting patterns that work better for more people. So if you’ve ever purchased a finished item from my shop…thank you!
As designers, most of us are committed to bringing inclusivity to our craft, and it’s an absolute joy to help create pieces that fit and flatter every body.
Cheers to Everyone Who Wears Handmade!
The next time you see a knit piece—from a cozy beanie to an oversized sweater—know that it’s more than just yarn and needles. It’s creativity, love, and inclusivity, stitched together. Thank you for supporting artisans who believe that handmade should fit every body beautifully!
If you’re interested in working with me as a test knitter, make sure you’re following me on Instagram or that you’re subscribed to my newsletter!
